Between palm trees and pilgrimage routes – The Ottmangut and Zum Hirschen
There are houses that are more than just a place to sleep. Houses that carry stories, that take their time; for their architecture, their surroundings, their guests. The Historic South Tyrol Hotels, Ottmangut and Zum HirschenThese belong precisely to this category: historic inns, guesthouses, and hotels, some with origins dating back to the 12th century, which are still family-run today. Places where the past isn't preserved, but rather carried on and carefully translated into the present. No standardized concepts, but rather individual touches, always with a palpable awareness of their heritage, renewable resources, and their own culture. I had the pleasure of visiting two of these establishments this spring: the Ottmanngut in Merano and Zum Hirschen in the mountains. Two places that, in their own way, demonstrate the diversity of South Tyrol and share the same profound depth.
Ottmanngut: Lightness among palm trees
Even upon arrival at Ottmanngut, a subtle feeling arises that something is different here. Perhaps it's the palm trees in the garden, stretching towards the sky as if it were the most natural thing in the world. The cypresses and citrus trees, the quiet, shady spots nestled among them. Perhaps it's the tranquility that settles in immediately, despite the proximity to the city. Or the three tortoises, meandering leisurely through the greenery as if they have all the time in the world. Ottmanngut sees itself as a "Suite & Breakfast," not a traditional hotel. Here, it's less about what's offered and more about a feeling, about not having to fill your time.
The house itself bears its history quite naturally. It is one of the oldest in Merano, first mentioned in the 13th century, and has been family-owned since the 19th century. Today, it is lovingly and meticulously managed by the sixth generation, Martin Kirchlechner (with his family and team); and you can feel it.
Immerse yourself in a bygone era
The eleven rooms are individually furnished, often with family heirlooms, bearing traces of different eras. Old wooden floors, fabrics, colors; every detail seems to have evolved organically. I stayed in the "Vefi" room, a room with its own little history: Located right next to Grandma's room, together they evoke a former female dynamic in the house—almost like a small shared apartment from back then. The view from the window overlooks the greenery of the palm trees, as if the city were far away.
And yet it's so close: Merano's city center is just a few steps away. From Ottmanngut, everything is wonderfully easy to explore on foot: stroll through small shops, discover sustainable fashion at Kauri, perhaps in the quieter side streets, or stop by the Monocle Shop Merano. For a delicious meal, you can visit Meteo or Gigis. For some exercise, the Tappeinerweg is ideal – a walking path with views over the city that feels almost unreal in its beauty, especially in spring.
Back at the house, the day always begins with a small ritual. Breakfast isn't a buffet, but a special, carefully composed three-course menu that surprises anew each morning. It's served at the table, under the palm trees, bathed in sunshine. Regional, seasonal, and peaceful.
The dining room creates such a cozy atmosphere that one can easily spend several hours there. Then there's the conservatory, where art projects are regularly exhibited under the project name "Postered": posters, perspectives, ideas – a space that is constantly changing yet remains consistently inviting.
Within a radius of just a few kilometers, countless options open up for an evening meal or, if it's raining, for booking a spa afternoon. For this, I'd like to recommend two other Good Travel accommodations: At the 1477 Reichhalter in Lana, you can enjoy a delicious dinner and, beforehand, swim in the natural pool and relax in the various saunas at VillaVerde. Both are well worth it.
The Ottmanngut is a place between two worlds: retreat and city, history and the present. And this is achieved here in a truly successful way, with a Mediterranean, comfortable atmosphere and the clarity characteristic of South Tyrol. Perhaps it is precisely this blend of restraint and poise that makes a stay here so special.
More information about Ottmangut
To the deer – reduction as an attitude
Just under an hour from Merano, the landscape changes – and with it, the pace of life. The accommodation is located in Unsere Liebe Frau im Walde. Zum Hirschen, embedded in an environment that instantly grounds you.
For centuries, the house served as a stopover for travelers: pilgrims, summer visitors, and later, motorcyclists. A classic village inn, and at the same time, always a place of arrival. Its origins reach back to the Middle Ages. Once a hostel for pilgrims, later a community center, a meeting place for village life. The Kofler-Mocatti family, who run the house today, haven't simply renovated the origins of this place, but have reinterpreted them.
The house tells a story of transformation. Around eight years ago, the traditional inn became a place that consciously distances itself from the classic hotel concept. What immediately stands out is the deliberate omission of many things. No excess, no distractions. No television, limited Wi-Fi, instead spaces that make tangible what is often lost: silence, materiality, time. Zum Hirschen sees itself as a place for people who don't just want a vacation, but are searching for something. Perhaps not something specific, but something palpable. The host family, led by Mirko Mocatti, has created something here that combines tradition and contemporary architecture – with a consistency that is felt in every detail. Nothing seems accidental, nothing cluttered. Instead, one repeatedly recognizes clarity, skillful reduction, and a refined sense of style.
Clear, simple architecture
The architecture follows a clear concept: reduction to create meaning. Inspired by an almost Bauhaus-like approach, everything superfluous is omitted. What remains are materials, colors, and textures – larch, spruce, birch, natural stone, and tones like dandelion yellow, forest teal, or a deep fireplace red. The rooms reflect different eras of the house: from the simple pilgrim's room to the contemporary interpretation of openness and light. Particularly striking is the underlying idea that runs through everything: the house as a place of power. This includes the proximity to the pilgrimage church, the private meditation path in the garden, and the notion that hospitality can be more than just service.
The restaurant also follows a clear culinary philosophy. The cuisine at CERVO Restaurant – led by Ingrid and her team – is inspired by the teachings of Hildegard von Bingen, combining herbal knowledge with regional products and a conscious approach: food as part of a larger context. During my stay, the Dandelion Weeks were celebrating their 30th anniversary – a concept that develops an entire menu from a simple plant, including aperitifs, dandelion spritzers, and dandelion gin and tonics. From blossom to root, dishes such as homemade dandelion tortelloni, a dandelion mountain blossom soup with Gewürztraminer, and an airy celery soufflé on dandelion cream were offered. Even a herbalist priest paid a visit, lending the whole event an almost poetic and transcendent depth.
The evening begins with a small elixir, like a quiet ritual. What was once a prayer before meals, a moment to pause and be thankful, is now, at Zum Hirschen, a small, warm drink. Then the feast begins: several finely tuned courses – usually between five and seven – are served one after the other by Edith, the heart and soul of Zum Hirschen.
She was born and raised in the building and, even in retirement, is still actively involved in all aspects of its operation. She serves wines to accompany the delicious menu, as well as herbal teas for digestion and high-proof mountain elixirs.
Breakfast follows the same principle: a careful selection of sweet, savory, and healthy options to ensure a peaceful start to the day. True to the Slow Food philosophy, the five breakfast courses are served gradually and deliberately at a leisurely pace. From semolina pudding (with dandelion honey) to free-range egg dishes and an additional selection of cold cuts and cheeses, nothing is left to be desired. Many products are sourced locally. The bread, for example, is baked right in the village – a small-scale cycle that demonstrates how closely everything is interconnected here.
During the day, you're drawn outdoors, because around the local mountain, the Nonsberg, there are countless opportunities to spend hours hiking and climbing significant elevations. A leisurely hike led to the tranquil Felixer Weiher lake, from where I continued to a waterfall, which I climbed from below. Back at the hotel, it was time for a sauna session or two; depending on the day, there's a Finnish sauna or a bio-hay sauna, quiet and almost private. The terrace is a wonderful place to relax.
What lingers is the overall feeling. The sense that someone has given this place a great deal of thought to what a stay can mean today. And also has the courage to consciously do things differently. Perhaps that's precisely the true luxury: not trying to offer everything, but offering the right things. What makes Zum Hirschen so special is the way guests are treated. You feel seen without it seeming forced. Welcome, without many words.
More information about Hirschen
Two places that will stay
The Ottmanngut and Zum Hirschen could hardly be more different – and therein lies their shared charm. One opens up to the vibrant city, to an almost Mediterranean lifestyle. The other retreats into tranquility, into the depths of the mountains. And yet, something connects them: an awareness of history and the desire to create spaces that are more than just accommodation. The feeling remains of having been to two places that are not only beautiful but also inspire a sense of connection. At the same time, guests can slow down, find inspiration, and rediscover an appreciation for materials and high-quality cuisine. This successful blend of old and new, thoughtfully conceived culinary experiences, and distinctive architecture is what makes the Historic South Tyrol Hotels so special.
Further "Behind the Scenes Article"
© Photos: Cecile Meier
Cecile Meier
Cécile is a freelance author and sustainability strategist. She enjoys traveling to the fullest: getting to know different cultures, listening to other languages and discovering new things either by the sea or in a (big) city always fascinates her. The stories and intentions of the Good Travel hosts are particularly important to her.
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