Winter break at the Drumlerhof in South Tyrol
I have celiac disease, which means I can't eat gluten. Not even the tiniest amount. Celiac disease is an autoimmune disorder that requires a strict gluten-free diet. If the fries and schnitzel were cooked in the same fryer, I can't eat them. My gut doesn't react well to that. I was diagnosed a little over a year ago, and my life has been different, much more complicated, ever since. You might be wondering why I'm mentioning this at the beginning of a behind-the-scenes article. Well, because I recently... Drumlerhof I was able to forget for a moment in South Tyrol that I suffer from this illness and everything that comes with it.
Because: Here, they cook gluten-free. Host Ruth has had celiac disease herself for over 20 years and, with her cuisine (which is known far beyond the borders of South Tyrol), makes it possible for other sufferers to feel completely normal again on vacation.
But even apart from the food, my stay at the charming hotel in South Tyrolean Ahrntal Absolutely magical. So: Let's start at the beginning.
Room with pine branches, cookie surprise and mountain view
I arrive at the Drumlerhof on a Monday – Kaiserschmarrn Day, as I later learn. I'm greeted by Emma, junior hostess and daughter of Drumlerhof owners Ruth and Stefan. She and her sister Franzi have been working at the hotel since 2023. I'm immediately served a delicious coffee, which I enjoy in the hotel's cozy lobby.
It's freezing cold outside, -5 degrees Celsius, and there's snow in front of the hotel. After finishing my cappuccino, Emma and I head up to room 202 on the second floor. As the door opens, the air is filled with the wonderful scent of Swiss pine. I love that smell. My small but lovely room is also decorated in fuchsia and has a magnificent view of the mountains. The morning sun fills the room with light. I immediately feel at home. What I also notice right away is the plate of cookies, gluten-free of course. One of them goes straight into my mouth.
Measuring success by the common good
Once unpacked and settled in, I took a stroll through the hotel. There are 37 rooms and suites here, intimate and manageable. Everything in the hotel is very well thought out, the color scheme is harmonious, and the blend of old and new is more than successful. The lobby is furnished with plenty of seating, and the bar, with its plant-themed wallpaper and velvet accents, has a cool vibe.
After taking a few laps around the house, I find myself at exactly 12 o'clock (as befits a granny like me) in the in-house restaurant "Drumlerstuben" and fortify myself before heading back out into the cold.
I chose the celery steak from the menu. It came with crispy chips, topped with Parmesan cheese and served in a cheesy sauce. A real treat, I can tell you.
At the Drumlerhof, everything is homemade, both cooked and baked. Ruth often spends days in the kitchen developing new recipes and, together with her team, thoroughly pampers their guests.
The entire menu is also available gluten-free (after all, people with celiac disease make up around 25% of our guests) and the ingredients for the dishes are regional and seasonal: fruit and vegetables from our own garden Organic farm in Signat am Ritten or from the community gardenDew Fresh“In Sand in Taufers, sausages from our own production, freshly pressed organic wine and many other products from the surrounding area land directly on the plates.
Instead of focusing solely on profit, success at Drumlerhof is measured by the common good of people, animals, and nature. Therefore, a common good balance sheet is prepared and reviewed annually.
A trip to the ice
With a full stomach (whether that was such a smart idea or not), I meet in the lobby. Günther AusserhoferHe's going to give me an introduction to ice climbing today. We're driving from Sand to Rein in Taufers. Even on the way there, I keep seeing frozen waterfalls to the side, where daring outdoor enthusiasts are scrambling up them. We stop at a waterfall quite far back. Equipped with ice axes, crampons, and climbing harnesses, we get started. Günther explains the basics, leads the climb, and then sends me straight onto the huge ice wall. This activity is definitely outside my comfort zone (but that's part of life, isn't it?), but I manage it quite well, I think. I get about 5-6 meters up the icy wall, and the height bothers me less than I thought it would. Adrenaline still surges through my body regularly, though. After three rounds, my triceps give out, and it's time to head back to the hotel.
Kaiserschmarrn and time in the rooftop spa
When I arrive back at the Drumlerhof, I'm just in time for the Kaiserschmarrn, which is always served here on Monday afternoons – gluten-free, of course. I enjoy my portion with a side of applesauce and cranberry jam, along with a hot tea, at the bar.
With a full stomach, I then made my way to the wellness area under, or rather on, the roof. The Drumlerhof was a pioneer in this regard, by the way: host Stefan was one of the first in the region to have the idea of putting the pool on the top floor. A very good idea, in my opinion, because how else could you enjoy such a wonderful view of the mountains while swimming?
One of everything, please!
After my spa treatment, I made a quick stop in my room and headed straight to dinner. I was given a cozy spot right next to the fireplace, the lights were dimmed (something I, as a neurodivergent person, was incredibly grateful for), and the atmosphere was very comfortable.
Emma recommends a non-alcoholic aperitif – slightly bitter, slightly sweet, with a vibrant orange color. Then there are four courses for me: an eggplant dish with mozzarella, maltagliati (a pasta shape, literally "badly cut") with kale and beans, spinach dumplings with Parmesan sauce, and a choux pastry with a creamy chocolate filling. When Emma asks me at the beginning what I'd like today, I express all my wishes and dietary restrictions for the very first time in my life. That was truly new for me. Just like the pasta, because: when do you ever get homemade, gluten-free pasta? Spoiler alert: never.
After this wonderful dinner, I roll back to my room and, after lying down in bed, fall asleep within seconds.
Breakfast and departure
The next morning (unfortunately also my departure day), I head to the restaurant for breakfast around 8:30. At the Drumlerhof, there's no buffet in the mornings; breakfast is served à la carte – they want to conserve resources, avoid waste, and prevent guests from piling their plates high. I order the gluten-free waffles with fruit and chocolate sauce – a true feast for my taste buds. There's also a selection of homemade rolls, butter, homemade jam, and yogurt on the table. I tuck into my mouth one bite after another while watching the large snowflakes fall in the courtyard outside.
Saying goodbye here isn't easy. I'm usually not so melancholy when I have to say goodbye to a hotel, but here it's somehow different. Ruth tells me that guests often have tears in their eyes at the end because they feel so well cared for, and I, too, get emotional from time to time during my stay because, quite honestly: when do you ever hear the words "All dishes can also be prepared gluten-free"? Spoiler alert: almost never. As a parting gift, Ruth gives me a bag (sorry, my Austrian accent – I mean a small bag) full of gluten-free choux pastry puffs. She baked them "just like that" for me. I can hardly believe my eyes. I also have Ruth's cookbook with me. I give it to my mother in the evening when I arrive home in Salzburg, along with the choux pastry puffs. She immediately gets to work and fills the delicious treats "just like that" too. A little later we are already sitting with the sweets over the recipes and I am happy to have somehow taken a piece of Drumlerhof home with me.
© Photos: Nadine Pinezits
Nadine Pinezits
Nadine is a freelance editor and copywriter. She lives in Austria and commutes between Salzburg and Vienna. This means she is either in the mountains or in the urban jungle, but at the same time tries to spend as much time as possible in her beloved country, Portugal.
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