Autumnal atmosphere over Bolzano at the Gasthof Kohlern
As a Viennese woman with a constant big-city pulse, I was very happy to recently breathe in the mountain air of South Tyrol – specifically in the charming Kohlern Inn Above Bolzano. I spent two nights there and what can I say: It was a perfect getaway with everything you need – views, peace and quiet, vibrant autumn colors, a hearty breakfast and plenty of mountain magic.
Arriving at the mountain
My companion and I exceptionally travelled by car (normally I am...) passionate train travelersThe road up to Kohlern is winding, but beautiful. The many trees along the switchbacks are in autumnal colors, and the grapevines are already a vibrant yellow at this time of year. With every meter of altitude gained, it becomes quieter, the air clearer, and the view more expansive. Reaching the top, we suddenly find ourselves in the heart of this peaceful mountain landscape.
The inn itself is situated right on the mountainside, with an unobstructed view of the valley. A small, charming chapel stands right next door. Upon entering, you are immediately greeted by the abundance of wood, warm colors, and a friendly welcome from the staff, along with the fresh mountain air that flows in.
A room with a view
We're allowed to stay in Refugium I. It's located in the new part of the inn – muted and beautifully coordinated colors, lovingly selected furniture, and a view that really deserves its own category on the website. From the large balcony, I can look directly down on Bolzano. In the evenings, when the city lights twinkle and the sky glows pink, I like to linger here a little longer.
But it's also wonderful at early hour, as I discover the very next morning. I open the window, take a deep breath, and watch the mist slowly rise from the valley. No traffic noise, just silence and this expansive view – this is what slowing down feels like, I think.
Enjoyment with tradition
The Gasthof Kohlern is a family-run business with a long history. Built in 1870 in the Alpine Art Nouveau style, it was once a retreat for Bolzano's more refined society. Hosts Cristina and Josef Schrott continue to run the family business, which has been a popular destination for South Tyrol vacationers since the 1960s.
Everything here is very personal, relaxed, and genuine. In the mornings, there's a breakfast featuring regional products: fresh bread from a local bakery for my companion, gluten-free rolls for me, homemade jams, and excellent coffee (as one would expect in Italy). In the evenings, the kitchen serves South Tyrolean classics with a modern twist. As someone with a sweet tooth, I was particularly taken with the desserts – I especially enjoyed the chocolate mousse with fruit coulis and the semifreddo with honey and nuts.
My first encounter with natural wine
Another real highlight this evening is our wine tasting. In the inn's wine cellar, we'll sample several white and red wines together in a small group. Pranzegg WineryMartin Gojer, the winemaker, comes by in person, explains his philosophy and guides us through the tasting.
He and his family cultivate about four hectares of steep vineyards around the Bolzano basin biodynamically, relying on old local grape varieties such as Vernatsch, Lagrein and Gewürztraminer, harvesting everything by hand and foregoing filtration or fining – instead, there is plenty of patience, manual labor and character in the glass.
Natural wine is a completely new topic for me. But I find it incredibly impressive how vibrant and unique these wines are. My favorite: "Caroline," a blended white wine that Martin named after his daughter.
A short trip to Bolzano by cable car
On the second day of our stay, we take the cable car down to Bolzano – and later back up again. It's a small technical marvel: Innkeeper Josef Staffler opened it back in 1908. The world's first officially approved passenger cable carto comfortably transport its guests from the valley to Kohlern. Today, modern gondolas glide above the treetops, offering us a breathtaking panorama of Bolzano and the Adige Valley, while we ascend an altitude difference of around 800 meters in just a few minutes. Overcome meters.
Once we arrived in Bolzano, we strolled leisurely, browsed through the arcades, enjoyed the autumn sun that blessed us that day, and of course ate pizza, because in my opinion there's no way around it.
Farewell with a view
The last morning. We're sitting at breakfast, the sun peeking over the mountain peaks, and I think to myself: "That was exactly what I needed before the whole Christmas rush begins." Two days above Bolzano with clear air, delicious food, fascinating encounters, and that peace and quiet that city dwellers sometimes really miss. And with every visit to South Tyrol, I understand more and more why the people here seem so content. And why I'm probably drawn back here again and again.
© Photos: Nadine Pinezits
Nadine Pinezits
Nadine is a freelance editor and copywriter. She lives in Austria and commutes between Salzburg and Vienna. This means she is either in the mountains or in the urban jungle, but at the same time tries to spend as much time as possible in her beloved country, Portugal.
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