July 3, 2025

Valencia – a region between tradition and modernity

On Spain's east coast, where historic streets meet the Mediterranean, lies Valencia – warm, vibrant, and full of contrasts. The city combines tradition and zeitgeist so effortlessly that I want to let myself drift from the very first moment. My stay begins amidst the old town's charm and futuristic buildings, the sound of the sea and the scent of blossoming orange trees. I'm curious and full of anticipation about what the next few days will bring.

Stroll through the alleys of El Cabanyal-Canyamelar

My journey begins in the El Cabanyal-Canyamelar district, once a small 19th-century fishing village and formerly known as Pueblo Nuevo del Mar. Even today, the district still appears serene; life seems to move at a more leisurely pace here. I stroll through the narrow streets, past houses, some renovated, some dilapidated. Alongside freshly painted facades, I discover crumbling walls, colorfully tiled entrances, old wooden doors, and graffiti artworks that transform the district into a small open-air gallery. In front of the houses, people sit on folding chairs, chatting and laughing as if the sidewalk were their living room. On my way, I pass the Casa Montaña, a tavern over a hundred years old, its walls lined with wine bottles and old barrels. The district is a place in transition, full of contrasts and stories. I sit down at a small sidewalk café and order a coffee and a fartón, a typical Valencian pastry, in my shaky Spanish. Outside in the sun, I enjoy the warm, authentic atmosphere of the historic harbor district and find inner peace.

Stay at the Barracart Apartments

I stay overnight in the Barracart Apartments, located in the heart of El Cabanyal. Upon my arrival, I am warmly welcomed by my host, Olga, who immediately gives me a short tour of the house. The building has been faithfully rebuilt with great care and attention to detail, true to its original design. Only the exterior facade remains from the old days and has been painstakingly restored. Inside, I am greeted by seven charming apartments spread over two floors, perfectly combining modern and old. They are furnished with carefully selected unique pieces, some antique furniture, some salvaged finds from the original house. As I walk around, I repeatedly discover small details that tell stories: a heavy wooden bench, once part of an old church, or a hand-painted canvas that is over a hundred years old. Each element fits harmoniously into the overall picture. This gives each apartment its own unique character and offers space to create your own memories. By the way, Olga now also rents out other apartments for medium to long-term stays, ideal for anyone who wants to enjoy Valencia a little longer.

Valencia's green lung and futuristic buildings

In the afternoon, I board the bus heading for the city center. It's vibrant, colorful, loud, and full of activity. My first stop is the Torres de Serranos, once one of Valencia's most important city gates. I climb the steep stone steps. Once at the top, a panoramic view opens up over the rooftops of the old town. In the distance, I hear the bustling murmur of the city, mingling with the screech of a seagull. Then I let myself drift through the Jardín del Turia, Valencia's nine-kilometer-long green lung. After the devastating flood of 1957, the Turia River was diverted, and the former riverbed was transformed into a spacious park. The paths are lined with orange and olive trees, palm trees, and fragrant flowers. Small ponds, bubbling fountains, playgrounds, and shady spots invite you to linger. I stroll past jogging people, picnicking families, and playing children until I finally reach the eastern end of the park. There rises the City of Arts and Sciences – a visionary complex of futuristic buildings designed by architect Santiago Calatrava. I'm particularly impressed by L'Hemisfèric: a building shaped like a giant human eye that houses an IMAX cinema. The architecture seems almost surreal, like a journey into the future right in the heart of the city.

Welcome cooling off in the sea

With my swimsuit and towel under my arm, I head to the beach. Soon, the shimmering blue of the sea stretches before me, stretching to the horizon. I stroll for a while along the wide, palm-lined promenade. Since I'm away from the crowds of tourists, it's pleasantly quiet and relaxing. After a refreshing dip, I lie on the warm sand, feel the salt on my skin, the gentle breeze on my face, and let my mind wander.

Enjoy live music from the balcony

I end the evening at the Ruge Rosario cultural festival. Many locals have gathered in Plaça del Rosari, listening to live music from one of the balconies. There's a drinks bar, nachos with cheese, and warm empanadas, the aroma of which wafts through the balmy summer night. The air is filled with sounds, laughter, and the babble of voices. I get myself an empanada, sit down, and enjoy the music. What a beautiful end to this eventful day. I'm excited to see what else Valencia has in store for me in the coming days.

Conclusion

Valencia deeply impressed me with its vibrant blend of tradition and modernity, from the historic alleys of El Cabanyal to the futuristic buildings of the City of Arts and Sciences. If you have time, you should definitely take a trip to the nearby Albufera Nature Reserve or visit the charming coastal towns like El Saler to experience the region's diversity even more intensely. For me, Valencia remains a city full of surprises, always inviting you to explore.