The Marche: Italy's underrated dream region on the Adriatic coast
From Ancona to Numana: The breathtaking coast
Anyone traveling through the Marche region cannot miss the capital, Ancona. With its large harbor, it serves as a springboard to Croatia, Greece, and Turkey. The breathtaking panoramic Conero Riviera road begins behind Ancona: Steep chalk cliffs plunge dramatically into the sea, and charming seaside resorts like Portonovo and Sirolo invite you to linger. We stop in beautiful Numana. In the upper part of town, there are small streets lined with colorful houses, home to charming cafés, restaurants, and boutiques. Two terraces offer spectacular views of the cliffs, and in the summer, there are evening concerts and an open-air cinema. After an espresso in the shade of the market square, we continue south.
The best restaurant: Mezzo di
The village is worth a visit – especially in the evening, the narrow streets are beautifully lit, and a viewing platform offers exclusive views of the sunset. Also worth a visit is the excellent restaurant. “Mezzo di…” by Laura and her husband Francesco. The restaurant is relatively new, with a modern dining room, the kind you'd probably find in Berlin Mitte. It also features a charming courtyard lit by fairy lights. The cuisine is seasonal and sophisticated, but without frills. The portions are generous, offering a mix of the best Italian dishes.
Laura's husband is in the kitchen, and she skillfully juggles plates and words. She was born here and, after working as a lawyer in Boston and Milan, landed in the restaurant industry. I have rarely met such a warm, dedicated, and witty hostess, who may appear to be a lightweight physically, but is brimming with strength. A former dancer, she gracefully dances between the tables, and it's well worth following her recommendations—everything is simply delicious! There are seasonal delicacies and a wide selection of vegetarian dishes. There's also an exciting wine list with some truly unique discoveries.
A pool with spectacular views: Borgo Belfiore
This 14th-century estate has been a popular holiday accommodation in the Marche region for over twenty years. With its tasteful apartments, a large communal table in the courtyard, a boules court, a small shop with excellent regional wines, and a spectacular pool, you can't go wrong. What's more, hosts Maud and Ronald are incredibly welcoming and humorous. You'll quickly feel at home in the Borgo Belfiore like at home and get great tips for excursions and restaurants.
The nearby town of Arcevia is a must-visit. The town has some pretty alleyways and is a great place to shop. And the best of all is the ice cream parlor in the market square, which is a kind of central meeting place for everyone. The homemade pistachio ice cream is excellent. Even the Carabinieri enjoy a few scoops of gelato here during their lunch break.
A devotional excursion: The temple in the cave
An absolute must-see is the temple (Tempio di Valadier) carved into the rock near the famous Frasassi Caves. The shady uphill walk takes about ten minutes. What awaits you there is a small building that fits perfectly into the cave's recess. You can walk around it or simply find a shady spot to sit in reverence for a few minutes.
A journey through time by bike: cool beach bars and sophisticated houses
From Porto San Giorgio and along the very touristy Lido di Fermo, you can enjoy a leisurely cycle for a few kilometers along the Lungomare Antonio Gramsci. You'll pass some pretty houses, some in the Art Deco style. In the square of the Monumento dei Caduti, there's a wonderfully kitschy shell fountain, reminiscent of the early Italian travels featured in some films from the 50s and 60s.
We take a break in the NomadSurprisingly, there's no pasta here, but hummus, bowls, and fresh fish. Friendly service and cool music create a relaxed atmosphere. Sun loungers on the beach can be rented by the day, and there's live music in the evenings.
The town of Fermo, by the way, is located on a hill not far from the beach, and its famous white-stone cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta, is located on Girfalco Hill, which is worth climbing. It offers an excellent view over the hilltop town all the way to the sea.
A day in Jesi: market visit, museums and special finds
Visiting the small town of Jesi on a market day is like being in a movie. Market stalls are set up everywhere, and there's loud haggling, laughter, and even a little bit of swearing when someone parks illegally. The market offers everything from A for amulet to Z for lemons. In the side streets, there are some nice little restaurants and cafés, as well as a few bookstores and beautiful museums. We decide to take a detour to the Palazzo PianettiOn this hot day, we're completely alone and receive a personal introduction from the museum curator. In addition to some classic paintings and an old pharmacy room, there are also several regular special exhibitions, such as how plastic waste is turned into art. There's also an inclusive theater troupe on site, which also has a small photo exhibition dedicated to it.
You can walk further out of town along the street in front of the Palazzo and discover some lovely antique shops, especially a charming vintage shop. Lemony We're particularly fond of vintage Italian signs, chairs from the 1960s, and industrial-style lamps. Of course, everything can be delivered to your home, or even better, taken away immediately.
A fish restaurant with humor and tradition: Da Nialtri
After so much exploring and sightseeing, we feel like having a simple meal and end up for the second time in a restaurant right by the sea. Da Nialtri The restaurant is very popular with locals because they always serve fresh fish. As a vegetarian, I still have the option of a delicious salad or excellent pasta with tomato sauce. Everyone sits at simple wooden tables with a view of the sea and a breeze in their faces. The service is very attentive and friendly. People even recognize us. The wine bottles are chilled in colorful toy buckets, the kind you can buy for children. Fishing nets, sailboat ropes, and seashells hang from the ceiling. There's a truly lovely atmosphere here.
Conclusion
The Marche region completely won us over as a destination and impressed us with its diversity. Here, you can swim, hike, enjoy excellent food, and explore. The region has a lot to offer for nature lovers, foodies, and culture freaks alike. We'll definitely be back, as the towns of Urbino and Pesaro are also said to be absolutely worth a visit.
You can find more accommodation in the Marche HERE
Photos: San Fiorano, Geraldine Voss, unsplash/Bernard Hermant, Borgo Belfiore, Pexels/sstoppo, unsplash/Rocco Stoppoloni
Geraldine Voss
Geraldine works as a freelance writer for Good Travel and has just completed training as a sustainability manager. After twenty exciting years in film, she now devotes herself full-time to her other passions - travel, food and design.
COMMENT