8 January 2025

The Enchanting Beauty of Apulia – Part 2

For me, it's a little further south to the baroque town of Nardò. In addition to the special old town, I'm also impressed by the fact that the sea is only a stone's throw away: less than ten kilometers away, I can swim in turquoise water.

In Nardò there are several accommodation gems, such as the wonderful “Agrumeto” and the charming boutique hotel “Palazzo Tafuri”, both of which I visit.

On my journey through this fascinating region, I discover how Puglia manages its natural resources and cultural assets, finding a balance between tradition and modern, environmentally conscious practices. There is so much to discover!

Nardò – A Jewel of Baroque Architecture

Nardò is a historic town in Salento, known for its baroque architecture and well-preserved historic center. The town has a long history dating back to ancient Greece, and its magnificent 17th and 18th century buildings bear witness to past prosperity. Piazza Salandra is worth a visit, surrounded by impressive baroque palaces. Here you can have a drink or a fantastic meal in numerous bistros and restaurants.

Dreamlike retreat in Agrumeto

Stylish probably describes this accommodation best! It is owned by Vincent De Cat (who is also responsible for project management and interior design in the accommodation mentioned later) and is part of NARDÒSALENTO - a collection of various special accommodations, such as The Court or The boot.

The Agrumeto consists of a ground floor with an open kitchen-living room and a large bedroom with en-suite bathroom; on the upper floor, which can only be reached via the garden, there is another bedroom with bathroom. In the wild green garden there are several places to sit and lie down as well as a small pool/jacuzzi for perfect relaxation. The guests have only themselves here and cannot be observed from outside. A dream in the middle of the old town. The house from the 17th century combines Salentine materials and brings out the original building in style. The large windows give you the feeling of being outside, surrounded by lemon trees. The holiday home has an atrium with a beautiful fireplace and creates an excellent place to completely switch off with minimalist decoration and muted colors.

As soon as you leave the accommodation, you find yourself in one of the narrow streets of the city and can wander off in all directions. You can enjoy a unique location in the heart of Nardò. Thanks to many great tips for restaurants and surrounding beaches, I eat traditional, delicious and inexpensive food in the Antica Trattoria Salandra. Good coffee and local pastries are available at The Seagull. Swimming in the cool Ionian Sea near Santa Maria al Bagno, where you can enjoy long walks along the coast.

Less than five minutes walk from the aforementioned Piazza Salandra is my second accommodation in Nardò: Palazzo TafuriThere, in addition to swimming, I enjoy the view of the rooftops of the city and a delicious dinner:

Charming luxury at the Boutique Hotel Palazzo Tafuri

Fortunately, the two current owners, Count and Countess d'Espous, discovered the small town of Nardò on a trip and fell in love with the jewel of baroque walls and immediately saw the potential. After commissioning the Salento-born architect Claudio Colaci and the Belgian interior design consultant Vincent De Cat, numerous considerations, two years of hard renovation work and a lot of love and feeling for design, a dream place was created.

The 4-star superior hotel is located directly opposite the Santa Chiara monastery. It leads through an inner courtyard, where the hotel restaurant is located, through preserved gate walls, over the spa and large pool area to more secluded rooms. The larger rooms and suites are located in the main building itself. They are individually designed, follow their own color concept - all of them combine the historical beauty and bring together the amenities of modern furnishings. Several sun terraces, including one with a jacuzzi, and a large roof terrace with a bar allow guests to feel the south of Italy and provide a breathtaking sunset with an aperitivo.

The hotel manager Athanase de Joussineau leads me through the impressive rooms and shows me the individual details and subtleties – it is simply impressive what has been achieved here!

The name is not a coincidence. Guests live majestically in a palace with wide staircases and very high ceilings, which create a special atmosphere of freedom and elegance. Every detail has been chosen with such precision that it cannot be overlooked. All rooms display the photographs of the local artist Rocco Casaluci, who artistically captured botanical details on camera. There is a small store of its own that presents local and international artists and offers their products for sale. For example, NINALEUCA, who make sustainable clothing and homewear in Salento. You can watch them at work in their store in Lecce.

Guests enjoy breakfast in the hotel's courtyard in the morning, and in the evening they can visit the Tafuri Restaurant, which offers à la carte or a three-course menu. After sunset, the stone walls are illuminated and the tables are covered with long white tablecloths. Here, you can end the day in a pleasant way with soft music.

On the way I also visit Lecce, the capital of the province, which is also considered the capital of the Baroque; and many other cities such as the medieval port city of Gallipoli. All the places I visit in Apulia inspire me not only because of their history and beauty, but also because of their focus on sustainability and honesty. The diversity of the cities, the delicious fresh food on every corner and the warm hospitality are convincing: Puglia is enchantingly beautiful and definitely worth a visit.