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Puglia

The Enchanting Beauty of Apulia

Puglia, the tip of Italy's boot, is a region that, with its breathtaking landscape, crystal-clear sea and rich history, not only wins the hearts of travelers from all over the world, but also that of our author Cécile. She tells us about her trip.

Despite numerous holidays in Italy in my life, I have never been further south than Rome (I am excluding Sicily here), so I wanted to get my own impression of Apulia. On my journey through this fascinating region, I was to discover how Puglia manages its natural resources and cultural assets to find a balance between tradition and modern, environmentally conscious practices. I was able to stay in four different Good Travel accommodations and see three times more towns and beach coves and eat more pasta and fresh fish/seafood than ever before.

market in Apulia

Bari – Joy of Life, Fior di Latte and Reunion

My journey begins in Bari with a rental car that will accompany me for the next two weeks, heading towards the city center. The capital of Apulia is a lively port and university city that never stops even in late summer: During the week, young people roam the streets until late at night, drinking beer or a “Sprizz” and enjoying snacks. The background noise is loud and rousing. The good mood stays with me the next day as I stop by the fish market and best focaccia at Santa Rita about 30 minutes pending.

Of course, I also stroll through the small streets of the old town and see old ladies shaping the famous orecchiette pasta .

An ice cream in the Gelateria Gentile must not be missed. My favorite is the “Fior di Latte” variety, although the peach sorbet also tastes heavenly. The arrival in Bari is perfect for me because I meet an Italian friend for dinner, who gives me so many tips for Bari that I unfortunately run out of time. But I follow a tip and eat the traditional pasta dish “Spaghetti all'assassina” (Pasta is fried in a pan with tomato paste, chilli flakes and garlic) in a Korean restaurant, where classic Italian recipes are served with Korean ingredients, and vice versa – what a brilliant idea!

in Apulia

Fasano – Between Nature and Tradition

Fasano is located in the hinterland of Apulia and is a charming town with almost 40.000 inhabitants. In a café on the main square, Piazza Ciaia, I meet the host of my first accommodation, Jürgen Faust, who runs several sustainable holiday homes and apartments in Apulia together with his wife Ilona. When we meet, he enjoys an espresso and gives me a little introduction to Fasano, the region around it and the city apartment. Palazzotto Fianco a Fianco, which is just a few minutes' walk from the café.  

 

The new apartment is located in the heart of the city in a historic townhouse from the 18th century and extends over three floors, or even four if you include the extended part of the roof terrace. On the first floor there is a spacious, elegant living room with a velvet couch and designer objects with impressive ceiling heights. On the second floor there is the bedroom with star vaults, thick walls and an integrated bathroom, and on the upper floor there is an open kitchen-living room with access to the roof terrace, which offers plenty of space for sunbathing, eating and spending time. The view extends over the roofs of the city, to the piazza and all the way to the sea.

Fasano
Accommodation in Apulia

A dream home in white

Another accommodation of the host couple Faust is the beautiful Villa Borgo Fianco a FiancoThe 600 square meter holiday home arrangement offers sleeping space for 12 adults and three children.

The Trulli architecture, traditional stone houses with conical roofs, have been preserved and sustainably renovated in the 300-year-old walls. The large private outdoor area is extremely impressive - whether it's the private covered yoga area, the outdoor pool with loungers, the numerous seating areas between the individual houses or the large dining area next to the communal kitchen.

No wonder the accommodation is a popular location for weddings! Jürgen shows me the individual houses, tells me about the difficulties during the renovation and the subsequent and ongoing renovation, "because there is always something to do". When there are no guests in the accommodation, he takes care of the almost two-hectare olive grove with almond trees and everything else that grows and thrives there in the early morning hours.

I taste fresh figs straight from the tree and enjoy an espresso in the sun. Jürgen recommends that I watch the sunset on one of the property's roof terraces. No sooner said than done; the next morning at 5.45 a.m. I find myself in a deck chair on the roof terrace, enjoying the natural spectacle in the color spectrum from light blue to bright red and taking countless pictures. The peace is indescribable. A place to unwind!

Trulli
Detail
In Puglia by the pool
Jurgen Faust
cozy niche
Accommodation in Apulia
trulli roof
Sunset

Ostuni – The “White City”

My journey continues into the “Città bianca”, the White City. Ostuni is located on a hill overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Its white old town, shining in the sun, is one of the city's most striking features. The winding streets and white houses give Ostuni an almost magical atmosphere, especially at sunset.

I can hardly believe my luck when I meet the hostess Dorothea Schuster and she gives me a tour of the Casa Stella di Ostuni In the historic old town center there is a spacious holiday apartment on three floors, which not only offers a fantastic view over the city and the sea, but also a stay in a class of its own.

Dorothea has implemented everything in this apartment that she herself values ​​from years of experience in international hotels: a relaxed atmosphere with two bedrooms, bathrooms, a cozy living room under star vault and a well-equipped kitchen that leads to the roof terrace. Everything is surrounded by high-quality wooden furniture, dove-blue and gold accents that blend in with the basic beige and white mood and tasteful details such as stylish lamps and pretty ceramics that were made especially for the accommodation.

She talks about the challenges she and all the tradesmen faced when the apartment was being renovated, because everything from the building materials to the furniture had to be transported upstairs manually through the car-free zone. Every piece of furniture was chosen with great care and is not off the rack. Even the bed linen comes from Italy and the focus was on regionality and quality in everything.

The individual eye-catchers, such as a gold image of the Virgin Mary, fit skilfully into the harmoniously coordinated picture. Fresh tomatoes and zucchinis are waiting for me in the kitchen and there is a bottle of wine in the fridge - what a great feeling to arrive like this.

Ostuni
great view
Stella House
image of the Virgin Mary
to the table
fruit bowl
Lodging
stylish lamps
alleys

In and around Ostuni

In addition to the really big market on Saturday, which offers all kinds of spice mixtures, fruits, vegetables and olives and also offers a huge selection of fashion and many other things, I particularly like the Burro Café on the edge of the old town. Here you can get specialty coffee, granola and toast with avocado or brioche with fruit. I get a bit of Bali vibes in the beach restaurant with bar Nomade Ostuni.

Ostuni
Italian breakfast
booth

For me, it's a little further south towards the baroque town of Nardò - it remains exciting and my travel report continues ...

 

PS: The header image was taken in the town of Polignano a Mare, 33 kilometers from Bari. A very well-known yet picturesque destination that is visited by streams of tourists until late summer.

© Photos: Cécile Meier, Casa Stella di Ostuni

Cécile is a freelance author and sustainability strategist. She enjoys traveling to the fullest: getting to know different cultures, listening to other languages ​​and discovering new things either by the sea or in a (big) city always fascinates her. The stories and intentions of the Good Travel hosts are particularly important to her.

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