22 Maj 2024

Sustainable restaurant tips for Lisbon

Boom Dia, Lisbon! Portugal is generally synonymous with fresh fish and Fado (traditional lamentations). In fact, there are also a lot of sustainable gastro concepts here and the people seem very happy and relaxed. Why not? The westernmost capital in Europe is beautifully situated between the Atlantic coast and the Tejo River. The urban area stretches over seven hills with many parks and a long (museum) promenade along the water. For this hilly city trip you should definitely be able to walk well or regularly get on one of the old trams or the funiculars (Ascensor da Bica). We have put together five restaurant tips for Lisbon for you.

Train line 28 is particularly popular because it takes (almost) all of Lisbon's sights from the historic cemetery (Prazeres), along the central Praça do Comércio, past beautiful facades with artistic tiles (azulejos) through the old town. This bumpy legend is now more of a tourist attraction than an adequate means of transport for the approximately 550.000 residents because it is mostly occupied by tourists. We also cruise for hours on the retro train through the city, sitting at the open window with the sea breeze and panoramic views.

At the end of the day we always end up in the Santa Caterina district in the lower town (Baixa), where there are particularly modern and sustainable restaurants and some cool bars and galleries. You can also meet real Portuguese people here who also enjoy their city.

1. Musa Brewery – first of all an Imperial like the locals

We start at sunset Musa Brewery. A small craft beer institution in Lisbon. Nicely located on a slope, the sun stays on the terrace for a relatively long time before it gets dark. There is wonderfully fresh beer and equally delicious small bar snacks such as tacos with fried cauliflower or spicy potato wedges. People choose to sit together at the beer tables or on a wall across the street. There is hardly any traffic on the small street, so you can get to the other side of the street with your beer in your hand without any risk.

The staff is incredibly friendly and funny and wants to find out from every guest where exactly he or she comes from. We learn here that a small beer is called “Imperial”. A good insider tip to be perceived as a Portugal expert when ordering further beer. So we immediately feel like locals. For me, the best moment on vacation is always when you learn more about the real customs and everyday life of the local people.

2. Água no Bico – Relax in the garden and enjoy art

You also have to work for this gem and climb a steep mountain. But it's really worth it. You can sit in an idyllic courtyard in the... Agua no Bico with colorful flowers and shady umbrellas. The menu has a wide range of selections from zucchini noodles to vegan curry. Delicious side dishes consisting of mushrooms or tofu can be ordered as a topping. The homemade lemonade is fresh and delicious, as is the mint tea.

The daytime restaurant is in the so-called “Polo Cultural Gaivotas”, a center for artistic creation with rehearsal rooms, offices and a training room. A residency program welcomes artists who have come to Lisbon to work on an artistic work. Exciting performances (music, theater, dance) take place here in summer.

3. Fumeira de Santa Caterina – Two enchanting sisters invite you into their cozy little room

About twenty people sit close together in the small, rather inconspicuous dining room from the outside. Ancient kitchen instruments such as sieves and pots hang on the walls. The mood at the tables Fumeira de Santa Caterina is exuberant and the service is spectacular – humorous, knowledgeable and direct. All guests are given extensive advice – also in English – and then receive their food quickly. Usually you share various small dishes. There is a large selection with exciting flavors and, above all, really tasty vegetable combinations. The dessert - a kind of panna cotta - is made from Portuguese cheese and tastes delicious with guava sauce. There is also a small glass of port wine. And the Italians at the next table also nod appreciatively at the cook for the unusual panna cotta.

Overnight tip for LISBON

4. Pastanaga – A chef who has cooked all over the world

We strolled through a small side street and suddenly delicious plates were juggled past us. A lively hustle and bustle between two guest rooms. After our puzzled look, a very distinguished and friendly older gentleman asked us in flawless British English whether we were interested in good food. A question that can only be answered in the affirmative. So after a quick look at the map, we sit down in the last available seat Pastanaga.

A short time later, chef Ana Borba personally comes to our table and explains the daily menu and the different origins of the dishes. She reports completely transparently where all her products come from. The menu contains references to who inspired their dishes. The recipe for the cheesecake comes from a very good friend. Other recipes go back to different family members. This very personal and emotional cuisine is reflected on the plate. Beautifully arranged with delicious ingredients, we eat gratinated artichokes and a filled filo dough with feta and oriental spices.

The port wine on the house rounds off a very successful meal. We chat some more with the two charming hosts and find out that our older gentleman speaks several languages because he has lived everywhere. Just like the cook, who has already wielded the wooden spoons in several embassies.

5. Planto Bar e Restaurant – Regional delicacies and modern wines from young winemakers

We were there twice Planto eat because the menu is so appealing and the restaurant is located on the wonderful Rua da Boavista. There are lots of little things (petiscos) such as olives, Portuguese cheese, oil sardines, salted crushed potatoes (literally: batatas a murro, which means crushed with the fist) or the classic caldo verde - a traditional supper from the north of the country. It is similar to a light potato soup and contains Couve Galega, which tastes similar to kale. The soup is served with or without sausage and with Pão alentejano, the Portuguese white bread.

The main courses are preferably regional fish and meat dishes. The wine selection from young winemakers from the Douro region near Porto or from the sunny Alentejo south of Lisbon is particularly exciting. We would love to stay here and try out more restaurants and wines. The list of recommendations is still very long, but unfortunately the vacation is already over. But we'll definitely be back soon.

Bon appetit!

Great overnight tips for Portugal!

You can find our digital Good City Guide for Porto Here

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Sustainable restaurant tips for Lisbon

1. Musa Brewery – first of all an Imperial like the locals

2. Água no Bico – Relax in the garden and enjoy art

4. Pastanaga – A chef who has cooked all over the world

5. Planto Bar e Restaurant – Regional delicacies and modern wines from young winemakers

Geraldine Voss

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